My RAW workflow using Photoshop
UPDATE: I am now using Photoshop CS2 in my RAW workflow... read the new review here.
In my previous entries, I discussed of the differences between shooting digital images in some JPEG format vs. shooting in RAW, and working with RAW images in Apple's iPhoto. This entry will go into a bit more detail, and describe my process for working with (or my workflow for) RAW images. This process has been birthed out of trial and error, and really seems to be an effective workflow for dealing with RAW.
My tools of choice:
- Adobe Photoshop
- Image Capture.app (if you are working with a modern Mac)
- Apple iPhoto
Throughout my course of working with RAW images, I have learned alot about the process, and have formed some best practices that may be helpful if you are new to, or are interested in shooting in the the RAW format. The most important aspect to working with RAW is having a basic understanding of Photography.
When you take a digital photo using one of your camera's "Automatic" modes, the camera analyses what you are shooting, and makes several adjustments to your photo on the fly, without your interaction. For an amateur (or for those occasions when you don't want to have to think about it) this is a great feature, and helps users produce rather good photos. However if you are wanting to get the VERY best out of your photograph, RAW is the way. Shooting in RAW leaves all the color correction, and exposure up to you: so it is best if you have a solid understanding of those concepts prior to shooting in RAW. Though, unlike shooting in Film, with digital images, you have a lot of room for improving your otherwise mediocre images.
For a good definition and understanding of exposure, see The DPReview Exposure section.
Part 1: Importing (or copying) your images
The first step is obvious, you need to get your images from your camera to your computer. Every photohropher I know has a different orgizational structure for storing their files on their computer. I personally like to keep my RAW images separate from my finished JPEG's or TIFF's. So when I import my images, I put them all in to a folder called "RAW NEGATIVES" inside a folder by date. So for example, If I were to import the contents of my camera today they would be stored at: ~/Pictures/RAW Negatives/March 2005/.
The tool I use to actually import my images is Image Capture. This is a rather simple looking application that has been bundled with the Mac since the inception of Mac OSX. The reason I use this app is simple: it works for what I need it to do.
Step one- Open Image capture
Image capture does two things for us: it first copies the images from your camera (or card reader), it then can perform an automatic task.
Step two - Choose your options
Now you will need to choose where you would like to save your images. It is really up to you where you want to save your RAW images, but it is vital that you keep them somewhere so that you have them incase you ever need to refer to the original. In this case I will be saving my images in the folder named "March 2005" which is in the "RAW Negatives" folder on my computer.
The automatic task really is just opening up your newly imported images in a program of your choosing - I choose the application "Adobe Photoshop." What this means is once the images have been imported they will each automatically open up in Photoshop. Great - one less thing to do after importing. ;-)
Step three - Choose "Download some"
At this stage, you will have a chance to view a small thumbnail of your photos. You can then delete those which aren't up to snuff. For each of the photos you do want to keep, some post-processing will be required, so don't keep photos you are not interested in keeping. Select all the photos you are wanting to import and press the "Download" button. The photos will then be downloaded to your computer and automatically opened (one by one) in Photoshop.
Part 2: Edit and color correct your photos in Photoshop
This step is the real reason you shoot in RAW. Also if you are using a PC, or decide not to use Image Capture, this will be your starting point. Whenever you open up a RAW image in Adobe Photshop, the photo opens up in the Camera RAW plugin. This plugin is built-in to Photoshop CS and is an optional purchase for Photoshop 7.0. This plugin gives you the creative flexibility to perfect each of your photos.
Unlike the "automatic" modes on your camera, things like white balance and exposure have not yet been solidified (though they have been predefined by your camera settings, they can be changed using the Photoshop plugin.) Changing these settings is how you can really get the most out of your photos: you can bring back an over or under-exposed photo, correct white balance to compensate for things like inside fluorescent lighting, and much more.
Step one - Correct white balance
Select the eyedropper tool (pictured at right) and select a spot on your picture that is completely white. The thinking is this: if you know what pure white looks like, you can adjust all your other colors to be more "life-like." (Note: iPhoto's omission of an eyedropper tool, is one major reason I cannot use the program for color correction.) You can then fine-tune the temperature and tint to get the most photo-realistic colors possible. This is one area, where you will need to use your best judgment on what looks best.
You may also choose to use one of Photoshop's built in preset white balances: As Shot, Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Tungsten, Fluorescent or Flash. Generally one of these will work correctly if no true white spots are available in your photograph to use.
Step two - Adjust exposure (if required)
You can now do the work of magic - you can adjust your exposure settings -2 or +4 stops. This works great if you are shooting photos indoor and don't want to make use of the internal flash. You can really bring back some underexposed shots (or vise versa), but the best practice is trying get your photos perfectly exposed in-camera.
Step three - Perform other adjustments (if required)
You can also use the RAW plugin to make other adjustments like: Shadows, Brightness, Contrast & Saturation. I generally only adjust the shadows, but each photo will require different "fine-tuning." When you have the photo as you like it, press the OK button.
Part 3: Save your corrected photo
When you have a RAW file on your computer, they are read-only meaning you cannot save over them. This is good because it ensures you don't ever lose your original "digital negatives." So when you attempt to save your file, Photoshop will prompt you to save your file in a different format. You can choose any file type you'd like, and some may be better than others. I typically save my corrected photos as jpeg's. I do this for two reasons: (1) I have the original RAW files for print projects, I save the jpeg's for posting to the web or using in iPhoto or other projects so jpeg is the most compatable and (2) becuase they take considerably less hard drive space than TIFF or PSD documents.
I generally save my corrected photos to my desktop (as I don't generally keep ANYTHING on my desktop. Once I have completed the above steps for all my photos, I then drop all the jpeg files into iPhoto for cataloging.
Conclusions
That's it. Thats the process that I use for working with RAW images. Will it work for you? Maybe. Does it work for me? Most definately. I experimented with several AppleScripts (and even wrote one or two) but in the end decided that this method was the best fit for my workflow. The flexibility that the raw plugin in Photoshop gives you allows you to really perfect each and every photo - and when your shots really matter, that is absolutely vital.